January 20, 2010

There Are Too Many Wine Brands In the World

I want to start off by saying that I am not a communist. I went to business school (Go Tarheels!) and I got some serious lessons in capitalism. I bought in hook line and sinker. But lately I've been thinking a lot about wine and I think I may be turning a bit red in my views. Why? I've come to the conclusion that there is just too much choice in the wine category and that maybe it should be voluntarily restricted by wineries (monkeying with market dynamics? gasp!).

I mean, I'm woman enough to say that even with kn
owing a thing or two about wine, I still enter wine stores and sometimes feel overwhelmed by the selection. I can't imagine how intimidating it is for someone just getting into the stuff! And it's only getting worse. Over the last decade the number of wines has proliferated and the choices of what to buy have become more and more difficult.

I'm a marketer by training so in my spare time I think about products, consumers, categories and dorky issues like that. In my contemplations, I've come to the conclusion that wine is the only category of stuff we buy (besides apparel) that has so many brand choices. I guess it's ok that I'll never be able to experience it all, but my question is: what is the true advantage of too much choice? I would argue that it only leads to more confusion and intimidation about wine. I'll take it a step further: in my opinion, the wine producers thoughtlessly churn out brands and in doing so, make wine too complicated for the rest of us.


I understand why they do this, as wrong as it is. I worked for a large winery in California for a number of years, so I've got some inside dirt.

The first thing -- in part, it's driven by us, the consumers. We like wine, we buy wine, so wineries create more brands of wine hoping we will buy them -- su
pply and demand. The wineries look at what we are buying from a data standpoint (yes, they see what scans at the grocery stores...a little Big Brothery, no?) and they try to make more brands similar to those we already like. I think of it like a Moroccan market, where each person is peddling their meat skewer. The more meat skewers we all buy, the more vendors there are the next day peddling their special brand of meat. The problem is, if there are 75 meat vendors, there are probably only 20 or 30 that have appreciable differences in roast, spice, and cooking technique between them. So it is with wine, in my opinion.

Second, from a business perspective, wineries also have to make a buck. So larger wineries create multiple brands as "outlets" for extra wine hoping we'll buy it. That way they can make money from both their good and less good grapes.
The end result is a flood of wine that we're uncertain about, but that we buy because it's on display or because it looks like something we know or because some dude gave it a good score.

So what is the solution to this over-abundance in wine? I think in an ideal world, we would have fewer wine brands with better quality in each and real differences between them. Wineries would focus on what they did best, and make differentiated products that normal people would
buy because the wines are unique. Instead of hundreds of California Chardonnays, maybe we would have a choice among a more manageable number that we could truly spend time with and evaluate. In this ideal world, as consumers, we could really get to know grapes and wines and regions, and learn what we prefer. There would still be nuance and style, but the dreck may be eliminated and the real differences in styles could shine. Focus, rather than mass numbers of brands, would improve quality, reduce our confusion in the store, and make wine a much more accessible product.

Sadly, I know that my ideal won't happen because the industry is not structured this way, but it's food for thought.

Would love to hear your thoughts. Please comment and let's discuss it!

7 comments:

Marilyn said...

Well articulated! I agree with you 100%. I think that less confused wine buyers will translate into more wine consumption (and of better wines). How do we we go about getting the message to the wine companies?

Benito said...

Would this even be possible without French-style control of the market? You may get a smaller group of higher quality wine but it also stifles innovation and can become boring. Plus, wine shops make a lot of money on the worst possible wine, and it would be hard to cut that out from under them.

I'd like to think of the wine market as more like buying books or music: thousands and thousands of different choices that can drill down to very specific interests. The challenge isn't in getting rid of the diversity, it's more a way of better communicating to customers. "You liked X? We think you'll like Y." Dare I dream of something like Oprah's Wine Club?

Early wine education (and basic writing) needs to focus on generic categories of grapes and regions rather than specific bottles, since not every brand gets distributed nationwide and not every state permits wine shipping.

Hammer Player a.k.a Hoyazo said...

I think wines should all be rated on each of, say, five categories (ie taste, aroma, fruitiness, dryness, etc.), on a scale from 1 to 10, for each bottle of wine produced or sold in the U.S. So then wineries can put whatever information they want on their wine bottles (name, description, etc.), but then they should have to also include on the bottles the 1-to-10 rating on each of the five categories. Then there would be far less confusion among consumers as to which wine is which, even with all the proliferation of new brands we have today.

Wine Educator for Normal People said...

These are all great comments. Benito -- although I don't agree 100% with the AOP system (former AOC) in France, I do think there is some merit to having controls over wines and appellations. I find that European imports are much easier to shop for because of the system. Although I don't want to stifle creativity of winemakers, I would love to reduce the amount of bad wine out there, and the AOP, in part, does accomplish that. The AVA systems in America and GI system in Australia are too loosey-goosey. We could probably stand to put controls in place to improve the quality.

Just my 2 cents!

Thanks for all your comments!

justgrapesandfood said...

I really love this article and agree with you whole heartily, One of the problems we have here in Ireland is that most of the brands bring out the same style and grape variety of wine . So consumers are not getting real choice of wine but rather of brands

Tom said...

Let me see if I understand your complaint.

I assume that there are must be a considerable number of wines that you have tried, and have come to know and love. Having enjoyed those numerous times, I doubt it matters how those are classified. I'm guessing that your frustration comes from the suspicion that there are great wines lurking on the shelf which you would enjoy if there was some way to decipher the .

So, if you have already identified wines that you enjoy, you could simply buy only those wines, and classification would be of no concern. Of course, you don't wish to do that. Understood. You want the opportunity to try new things.

But, wouldn't restricting the number of labels be tantamount to the same thing? You would essentially be excluding those wines that do not fit into a neat little pigeon hole.

Rather, why not use technology to disseminate more information. Imagine something like IMDB for wines. The bottler could display a QR code on the label, and the consumer could scan it. This would allow the winemaker to reveal info like, varietal content, cap management technique, sur lie or not sur lie, ss or oak (french, american), etc.

Of course, you might need to be a Master Sommelier to get a meaningful impression from all of this info. However, much the way a computer dating service matches people, this data could match your favorites with unknown wines you might have a reasonable expectation of enjoying.

This way, diversity is maintained, and consumers are enlightened.

Wine For Normal People said...

Tom,

The point is more that I think it's silly that there are wines that are identical or nearly identical being put on the shelf to take up space so you will be sure to buy something from a large winery because you like the label, essentially. It happens all the time -- essentially the same wine is marketed with different labels.

I understand that it's a business (I worked in the industry for years, which is how I know about the label switch without a meaningful difference between wines) but I guess my hope is that the brand proliferation will calm and the best will rise to the top, forcing the lesser wines out of business.

We'll see what happens as the market matures...I don't think my hope will be realized. It seems like there's a new brand everyday. Hopefully your ideas on technology will help people, since lord knows the wine companies aren't going to do it!!!

Thanks for your comment!
Elizabeth