I've been reading a lot of stuff lately that has panned the hell out of wine bloggers, wine mobile applications, and newer wine critics...and although I find some of it comical, it's been bugging me.
The basic argument in every study, commentary, and editorial is that anyone who is not already established in the wine writing game or isn't a source you know already is essentially full of s*&t. Each article, blogger, periodical, and Op-Ed'er is either saying that you don't trust anything that bloggers say (in the data-based studies) or that you shouldn't. The same goes for mobile wine applications, resource sites, and anything else that isn't Spectator, Enthusiast, Food & Wine, The New York Times, Decanter, The Wine Advocate (Robert Parker), etc.
So, according to these articles, YOU essentially are saying that all forms of new information and new media are worthless and may as well not exist except if written by the same people who write for magazines and papers that existed before the 1990s. YOU eschew "new entrants" into the field and don't trust or like anyone who hasn't earned their stripes at a major publication first. Better stop reading this blog now ...
But if you decided to read on...I'll say this. This story is a retread of the story of the entrenched, old media industries -- music labels and newspapers especially come to mind. Recall that the music labels shut down Napster rather than trying to harness its networking powers (for now, we'll leave it alone that the app was kind of stealing music). Then the industry boycotted iTunes because fat cat execs would have rather had you buy the whole crap album than just buy an individual song you may like. It's the same story: Old doesn't like the new and they don't want to share their audience or accept that things may be changing.
I'll concede that many wine blogs are written by folks without a lot of wine knowledge and that I'm personally a fan of a very few. I don't think this is a really radical view. To quote a fellow Long Islander (I'm a native, although I don't live there anymore) with everything you read or listen to or watch on a regular basis ..."It's a matter of trust."
But we don't need whining journalists to tell us to question media and our trust level of content providers. Trust is earned over time. Doesn't this go for everything in your life? Here are three examples:
1. You hear from a friend that a hairstylist is really great, so you go to the salon because you trust your friend. The stylist FUBARs your hair and then you neither trust the stylist, nor the friend.
2. You call a painter whose name you got off the Internet because you need a room painted desperately and the price is right. He turns out to be awesome. You use him again and you recommend him to everyone you know.
3. You read a review of a wine on a wine blog and it seems like something you would like. You buy it based on that recommendation. It rocks your world. You keep reading the blog and taking the recommendations.
Why is it that wine "authorities" think that we are all a bunch of morons and lemmings? Yes, there are 3,000 wine blogs out there. Not all of them will continue, and not all of them are written by people who know much about wine. But we know this. We can see it right away. And it's our choice to decide if we'll keep reading them for amusement or to find some other source of information.
I find it interesting that the data in one of the studies showed "definitively" that people don't trust wine bloggers, but then as a fellow wine blogger, The Wine Crumudgeon, pointed out, those who actually know what a blog is (that was part of the problem -- they didn't know what a blog was), trust them about as much as they trust the people at their wine shop. The empirical study implies that people trust wine shops a lot more than blogs -- proving the mantra I learned in business school -- there are lies, damn lies, and statistics.
Another
fascinating article on "death to bloggers" comes from a writer for the Connoisseurs' Guide To California Wine, whose thinly veiled hatred for new bloggers seems to come from a fear that he and his cronies may be undermined by other, more interesting people on the horizon. He hopes to hold on to his salary (and his $90/year subscription fee) by stripping bloggers of their credibility and insinuating that the old guard is the only game that will survive (*Please see the comments below where a dialog between the author and I played out. He clarifies his position a bit).
I'm sure the author of that article would lump me in with the amateurs, but I like to think that because I am a Certified Sommelier, Certified Specialist of Wine, have done my time on the business side of the wine industry working in California for a large winery, and I have a wine education business in which I do classes for people constantly, that my stuff comes from a place of experience, expertise, and understanding about what people want to know about a very broad, difficult subject. But that's not up to me to decide. It's up to you to choose to trust me and many of the other bloggers out there or not.
Regardless, I think we should all resist the urge to cast a death knell to a new medium that gives people access to more information and gives them a chance to make decisions about who they believe in. The number of people who write blogs hurts no one, but the rise of successful ones eats into the scared old guard, which is why they keep predicting the end of it all (wishful thinking). I say, bring it on. In the end it's up to all of us to choose what we like and what we don't. The best will rise to the top, the less good won't garner an audience.
In this situation, let's use Billy Joel's wise words: "It's a matter of trust..." A matter which is up to you, not to someone else's opinion on wine bloggers, wine applications, and the future of wine on the Internet.
8 comments:
Wow - good rant! But your point is a very good one - it IS all a matter of trust. If people read your blog and learn something or try a wine you review and like it, that should be enough. Wine is all a matter of personal taste - period. Even the uber-published experts don't always agree on the same wines. Learning about wine is a lifelong journey, and I for one enjoy learning from all kinds of sources ... your blog included.
I really enjoyed reading this. You make a lot of good points and your comparison to the music industry is right on. I was heavily involved in the music industry 8 years ago when those events were unfolding.
Now, I'm a chef and food and wine writer for Snooth Media... I also write a blog.
The thing I found to be most interesting, as I started to meet professional critics, is that most of them had no interest in wine before becoming affiliated with wine publications. Most of them were journalists, (makes sense right?) who happened to gain employment with a wine magazine, and so they geared up to become wine critics. So how do you compare those credentials to the average blogger?
Again, thanks for the very enjoyable read.
Elizabeth, I think you may have misread my blog article "Wine Blogging: Will It Survive".
Here is a central paragraph that I think suggests a different meaning than that which you have suggested.
I wrote, "Those who love what they are doing and don't care about not getting paid for it, or maybe making a pittance based on a few paid advertisements, will stay around. The majority of the "toe-in-the-water" entrants, however, will get tired and go back to their day jobs. Others will undoubtedly take their place, and, in the Olken view, there will always be a large number of enthusiastic amateurs-some of whom will go on to become part of the next generation of pros."
Far from showing hatred for bloggers, I expect that they will continue to exist and that some will prosper.
I wonder if you might go back to my blog entry last Thursday and reread it. If you find anything that does in fact support the notion that I have some kind of hatred for bloggers, please post it here. I have tried to find out how you came to your conclusion and cannot figure it out.
Respectfully,
Charles Olken
Connoisseurs' Guide to California Wine
www.cgcw.com
K Bell--
Thanks for your support and for hearing the message I'm trying to convey. You are so spot on: wine is totally subjective.
A big problem I have with those uber published critics is that they write about it like taste is a matter of fact, not preference. Wine can be confusing enough without someone telling you that if you don't taste cherry then you're a moron!!!
Regarding the "death to bloggers" sentiment that seems to be spreading, I think the world works its magic in pretty straightforward ways sometimes -- there tends to be a common sentiment about trust and a group that earn it by being honest and accurate. That doesn't mean people don't have a right to publish whatever they want, just that the ones that are providing value may garner more interest.
I'm glad you count me among the group you trust and that you've done enough poking around the internet to figure out what works for you! There's some great stuff out there and talented people -- it takes time to find them, but when you do, it's great to have them as a resource!!
Take care and thanks for reading and commenting,
Elizabeth
Eric,
Thanks so much for your feedback. I'm glad you agree with my music industry analogy -- it seems like a good parallel and hearing from someone with experience that it's fitting is great (M.C. Ice, my husband, also worked in the industry during the Napster days and feels the blogger revolution in wine is similar!).
I don't know any wine journalists personally, but I find it really interesting that most of them are coming from a journalism rather than wine-loving background -- thanks for pointing that out! Maybe in preparing for the "role" of critic, they put on their most erudite, snooty voice to hide their relative lack of knowledge and then as they became more conversant with the subject the voice stuck? I bet that's the case with the guys at Spectator (BTW -- I rank on Robert Parker often, but I do have to give him credit -- he started his newsletter purely out of love for wine and so he has to be kept out of this...)
I don't know, but what I do know is that ordinary, well-read, professional, smart bloggers who are coming from a place of passion about the subject may very well usurp the traditional critics in the blog-o-sphere and in the larger media. The existing critics' tight knit club may be falling from grace...and I think many folks applaud this. Wine is becoming more understandable, more widely consumed, and more user-friendly. Who could ask for more? Oh, probably not the journalists who fell into wine writing!!!
Take care, thanks for reading, and I look forward to hearing from you again!
Elizabeth
Hi Charles,
First of all, thank you for taking the time to write and for being professional and respectful in doing so. Others who disagree with me haven't always been so kind in their comments and I do appreciate it.
Second, to my reading, the tone of your post was negative towards bloggers and really had a feeling of exclusion. There seems to be a "level-setting" in your tone, which puts "pros" (and we can debate what exactly that means because perhaps that is the crux of the debate) above the blogging community. This hierarchy that is created does not account for the fact that Enobytes is not an amateur site, 1WineDude is a credentialed wine professional, and The Good Grape is written by a very experienced wine writer/self-taught expert. I would consider these folks pros, but again, this may be the main issue here.
My reading of your post is that there is a unstated sense of superiority about those who are established versus those who are blogging and not writing for the existing periodicals. I don't think the consumer of this type of information is seeing the world this way anymore and it feels like your post doesn't accept the new reality.
Although I agree that not everyone will make it (that's how it goes in every industry), I feel that given the hierarchy created by your examples, the post indicates that there isn't much room for new media and new ideas in wine. I think it's a very different story -- one only need to look at Gary V to see that consumers are hungry for something different from established writers/critics.
You asked for specifics, so here are just a few points that led me to my conclusion that you are negative towards bloggers:
1. In the first paragraph..."But, there are still hundreds of wine blogs whose authors hope to stay in the winewriting business for a long time. They won't."
2. "For the current pros, it is a different kettle of fish. People like Steve Heimoff, Paul Greggutt, Jon Bonne, Eric Asimov, Tom Wark, your CGCW editors will stay around because blogging is part of being relevant in the age of the new media. That certainly is why the CGCW blog came about. The Internet cries out for more information because the cost of creating that information in electronic print is not very high. The cost of finding something to write about is, however, very high, and while it cannot be measured in dollars for wine and press startups, it is measured in years and years of preparation..." This statement really seems to belittle those with lots of experience but who are not professional journalists. Many bloggers are trusted resources and have vast knowledge of wine. They have plenty to write about.
3. "There are, of course, interesting startups, and their takes on things can sometimes be more insightful than the pros because we sometimes are too close to the trees to see the forest." Although I'm sure you meant no disrespect, the bloggers you mention are professionals and just because they don't write for physical papers or those with big names, doesn't mean they aren't respected and their opinions aren't counted as much as yours, Eric Asimov's or Robert Parker's opinions.
I hope this clarifies where I was coming from in the post. I look forward to hearing from you again.
Best regards,
Elizabeth
Elizabeth--
Thank you for the long and thoughtful response. I still think you are reading more into the column than was there, and let me suggest just one reason why.
You cite Joe Roberts, Jeff Lefevere and Pamela Heligson as bloggers without print behind them as successful. If you would ask each of them, I think you would find that we are friends and that they will have felt that I have been supportive.
Joe Roberts (!WineDude) is my adopted Internet son. We have pushed that little big of fun so far that people have complained about it. Joe and I don't care. We are friends.
Jeff (Good Grape) has featured in my Tuesday column called Best of The Blogs. Admittedly, some of those "Best of" columns are written by established journalists, but many are not. Yet, there they are--being called out in my blog for the excellence of their blogs. And you might note that the comments column in the article "Wine Blogging: Can It Survive?" includes a long note from Mark, Pam's (Enobyte's) significant other.
I would like to respectfully suggest that the full body of evidence shows that I am far from a blog-hater. It would be hard to prove the case based on the quotes especially the one about some folks simply not staying in blogging because you have now said the same thing yourself both in your original article and in your response above.
At this point, I would suggest to you that we are on the same side of the street and we might best be served if we can move forward from here with that as a common understanding between the two of us.
Charles,
I can see where you're coming from, but without knowing you or your relationships with Joe or Pam, the post alone doesn't show your generally positive view on the matter. I get it now and will put an asterisk in the post for people to read these comments so they can see where you're coming from.
I have no desire to be locked in a conflict with you and I think we can put this to bed. Again, I appreciate your professionalism, explanations, and respect.
Thanks!
Elizabeth
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