South African Cabernet: Amazing Wine, Amazing Value

South Africa is at the top of the esteemed list "most underestimated wine regions of the world." For whatever reason, it seems like nothing has gained true traction in the American market and, as a result, the selection of wines from South Africa is not expansive, to put it nicely. My friends across the pond will need to comment and let me know what the situation is there, but my hunch is that it's not too much better (on the BBR web site in the UK, for example, only 24 selections are from South Africa).

Because I've traveled to South Africa and tasted stuff from some of its amazing winelands (although I was in Franschoek, not Stellenbosch, which I'll write about here), I'm a big fan. The country's got a lot of problems, but making wine isn't one of them. They've been at it since 1652, when the first settlement was established by the Dutch to re-stock ships with food and booze on their way from Europe to the Far East and back. 

In 1679, a dude named Simon van der Stel set up Stellenbosch, modestly translated as "Stel's forest." Why a forest and what does this have to do with wine? Van der Stel and his crew planted oak trees all over "his" town to absorb the punishing winds that ripped up all attempts at agriculture, including winegrape growing. It was an ingenious plan to fix the problem -- I can attest that the wind is really brutal there (I unfortunately found this out when driving in a friend of a friend's convertible with the top down while my hair slowly turned into a wasp's nest).

Stellenbosch is in the southwest of the country, on the western side of the Cape of Good Hope. Surrounded by mountains, with a Mediterranean climate, Stellenbosch is about 30 miles from Cape Town and is the hub of quality wine production in South Africa.

Today the town is full of students who attend Stellenbosch University (which has a big wine program, BTW). The best sites for wines are either near the town of Stellenbosch, where ocean breezes from False Bay cool the otherwise hot area, or on the slopes of the mountains, where the altitude cools the air and slows ripening.

Although whites, namely Chenin Blanc have dominated for years here, reds are gathering steam.  Cabernet Sauvignon is the clear front-runner in the world of South African reds. The ones I've had have been excellent values and really complex and, like many South African wines -- somewhere between a Bordeaux and a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. 

The wine I had was a great mix of subtlety and texture. It is nearly the last bottle of a case of wine that I won from the Wines of South Africa, who had a competition for a trip there (I came in second and my consolation was a great case of wine, so I'm not complaining!). It was nice to enjoy my spoils!!! 

Waterford was established in 1998, and it may be young, but it's got experienced ownership and winemakers, and it shows.  Here's the review:

 

The Wine: Waterford Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

The Grape: Cabernet Sauvignon (there is probably some Merlot and Cab Franc in it too, but I can't find the info anywhere!)

Where it's from: Stellenbosch, South Africa

Alcohol: 13.5%
Vintage: 2004

Price: $22.00

Color: A 7 year old wine is bound to be a little brown around the edges. This one was a garnet color in the center, then ruby and brown on the edge. It was definitely ready to be sipped...the old girl was starting to show her age. 

Smell: A classic Cabernet profile, this smelled like black currant and blackberries -- totally lush. It had a green pepper and green herb quality to it, very common for Cabernet. On the second whiff, there was a very delicate violet/rose smell and then a rich, earthy, wet soil thing, which I was surprised I didn't get on the first sniff. It smelled like a pretty elegant, not over-the-top Cabernet -- totally my style, so I was excited.

Taste: Texture reigned supreme in this wine. It had excellent, chewy mouth-drying tannins. The wine was a medium weight -- not too fruity or heavy. It was dry with a dusty, earthy flavor. I loved the spice -- cinnamon, nutmeg, and black pepper (I feel like I should try that combo on toast or something, since I love it so much in wine). There was fruit to be had, but it was super subtle. Plums, black currant, and black cherries were kind of lurking in the background behind the earthiness and texture.

Pairing: A lot of Cabernets are huge wines and need really flavorful meats or stews to stand up to them. Not the case here. This wine is elegant and subtle and earthy. It needs medium weight food -- lamb, game, or vegetables or meats in a thyme and mushroom sauce would be great. You don't want to lose the subtlety of the wine, so make sure the food is not over-the-top with flavor or heft.

Drink or Sink: Drink. This is a lovely Cabernet Sauvignon. It's not overdone and it's got all the components I think a Cabernet should have: fruit, earth, spice and amazing texture. If you can find it, drink it...but the real challenge is hunting it down!