Post Highlights
1. The Languedoc region of Southern France and the kind of wine
that's made there.
2. Info on a smaller area, an Appellation d'Origine Protégée, Minervois.
3. A review of a really confusing wine from a
great producer, 2010 Château Coupe Roses "La
Bastide"
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If
we talk about the wine wild west in France, it would definitely be the Languedoc
region in the south. Here, loads of "Country Wine" or Indication Géographique Protégée, (Protected Geographical Region) is made.
It's a
very innovative area -- producers have the freedom to grow many types of
grapes, blend them as they wish, and even put the grape names on the label. So
although they completely bust out of the French tradition of naming things by
place (except for Alsace), they have a leg up on the rest of France because
they can market to New World consumers in a way that they understand -- Syrah,
Merlot, Chardonnay -- the language of grape rather than place.
Now, although most of the larger region is basic wine, there
has been a great push by top producers in the smaller towns and regions to up
the ante. Quietly, for nearly thirty years, they've been making wine under the
stricter, smaller Appellation d'Origine Protégée. These AOP
areas are more controlled -- the amount of grapes grown, the blend, and
the flavors of the wine are closely monitored for the designation to be
awarded.
Minervois (Mehn-ehr-VWAH), an AOP since 1985, is
named for the town of Minerve where the Romans grew grapes way back when. With
rivers running down the Montagne Noire in the north, the region is full of
terraces in the foothills and the valleys have more fertile alluvial, stoney
soils. It's a pretty diverse area.
Given
where it's located, you can guess the climate is mostly Mediterranean. But at
higher altitudes breezes all the way from the Atlantic can have a cooling
affect. Minervois is a large area with variations in climate -- some areas are
in the foothills of the Montagne Noire are cooler, some are in hotter valleys,
some near the Mediterranean, and some at altitude growing on really bad soil
that makes the grape struggle and get lots of flavor.
Because
Minervois is an AOP, the French government mandates the recipe. For reds,
Mourvédre and Syrah must be at least 20% of the blend with Grenache and local
grape Lladoner Pelut making up 60%. The rest can be Cinsault (used a lot in
Rosé), Carignan, and a few other local grapes.
Great story, but I'll be honest -- I've
rarely seen a wine from the Minervois AOP. Normally I just see the general
Languedoc wines that have weird critters or pictures on them and are iffy in
quality. So when my friend at one of my favorite wine shops recommended this
wine, I had to try it.
Château Coupe Roses has been owned by
the same family since 1614 but the recent generation has put the bloom on the
rose (BAD PUN!). The vineyards are at the highest altitude in Minervois with
cool nights and a moderate temperature that allows the grapes to ripen slowly,
gathering great acid and lots of flavor.
The
Château makes a few different wines. The one below, which was very
well-priced, launched a battle in my mouth. I gotta say, I STILL don't
know what I think!!!
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The Wine: 2010 Château Coupe
Roses "La Bastide" Minervois
Price: $14.99
Alcohol: 13%
Color: Ruby, dark, thick legs
Smell: Stinky. Really stinky. If you want to smell a wine that
expresses "terroir" -- pick up this puppy. It was like earth, dirt,
and compost. And then I'm not sure if it's because of the name but I also
smelled roses -- old dried rose petals, but roses nonetheless. I usually like
really stinky wines like this so I was kind of excited to taste it.
Taste: This was almost like a mediocre quality Bordeaux, with its
very earthy, dirty flavor. It was a total contraction in my mouth -- it was
floral yet bitter from the strong tannins, and like black currant, over-ripe
raspberry, and prune, but also like a green pepper, which is odd for these
grapes. It tasted kind of like a cigarette without the filter -- pure tobacco
-- and had pretty harsh mouthdrying tannins which stood out, even against the
very abundant fruit.
Drink or sink?: I don't know. This wine was so freaking
weird. I've never had such a mixed feeling about a wine. I loved it
and I hated it. There was something appealing about the fruit with the
cigarette and green pepper thing, but even I, with my love of stinky, earthy
wines, had a hard time with this because it was so strong. I'm confused about
my feeling on this wine. I guess I'd say, give it a go -- at minimum you'll
have a fascinating time trying to describe it if your experience is like
mine.
If
you've had this wine, please comment here or on Facebook or Twitter.
I would love to hear what other people think about this!
Just tried my first minervois the other day and loved it. Thanks for more information on the region!
ReplyDeleteFunny... I describe the reds I like this way, "mushroomy, barn-yard, leather, and black-olive."
ReplyDeleteI had this wine at dinner last night and loved it! When I read your description I had to laugh. That's it to a T. and certainly explains why I liked it so much.
Hi Michael and Nancy,
ReplyDeleteGlad the post was helpful for you both! This was a strange wine but it had stuff going on -- which is more than I can say for a lot of wines out there!
Take care and thanks for reading!
Elizabeth