For me, one of the best things about wine is how it can
transport you to another place with just a sniff or sip. Crack open a Bordeaux or a Riesling from
Mosel, Germany and voilà! you’re there. If you think about what the wine really
tastes like, you’ll notice the taste of soil, slate, or chalk. You may then
notice that it can make you feel like you know a place without ever having been
there.
But sometimes you can’t taste those things at all. Sometimes
wine is just “white wine” or “red wine” or “rosé.”
As the world becomes ‘smaller’ with technology constantly
providing feedback on what wine buyers want and what they don’t want, and the
soaring popularity of influential wine
critics who decide what wine should taste like with the stroke of a key or the
uttering of a phrase, many wines have reached a very “same-y” middle ground.
As I've said before, I was once a brand marketer for a very large winery. I
remember sitting in meetings where consumer research folks presented a “taste
map” to my manager and me. They circled the spots that indicated which flavors
people liked and which they didn’t (as if most of us can even pinpoint that
while being drilled about it!). The wines we subsequently made fit into the
profile for the price point, even if it meant that other brands we made also
fit into that profile. Any extreme flavors or unusual character were disguised
with the help of oak barrel aging and extreme filtering.
Although this was a huge winery with the ability to hire a
team of people to make a “taste map,” I’ve noticed that in the last 5 to 7
years, many, many wines I’ve had, regardless of origin have a neutral,
“pleasant” profile with no sense of “somewhere-ness” at all. That dirt taste I mentioned is often absent
in a Bordeaux, and the juicy fruit is tempered in Napa Cabernet (and not just
because of vintage). Everything seems to be moving to a center point. Or to put
it more bluntly, more and more, a lot of the wines that are available to most
of us just lack character.
In the world of globalization and more open transport and
trade of goods, are we losing something in the translation?
I don’t know. But what I do know is that with this change,
it’s become more and more important to study up, travel to places and seek out
wineries that are making wines that represent the land and region so you know
what the stuff really tastes like. That way, when you grab a bottle from
the shelf you’ll know if it’s been whitewashed to fit with what we supposedly
want or if the winery has stuck to its guns and made a wine that represents the
land in which it grew.
I’ve said it once, and I’ll say it again…wine is just the
manifestation of agriculture. Although
chemical processes and various means of storage can help enhance the flavor or
tame harsh tannins, I really believe that a great wine should remind you of the
land in which it grew. Sadly, in the
world of globalization, data obsession, and commercialism, wine consultants and
critics rule and, unless you hunt and do your homework, the wine available en
masse is a pale version of what it is on its home turf (if you are interested
and want to know more, watch the movie “Mondovino” and you’ll see how dramatic
the situation really is!).
I don’t want to be all gloom and doom: the great benefit to
globalization of wine is that bottles are available from regions that had
previously exported their wines only in small quantities, if at all: Mendoza,
Argentina (Malbec is smooth and delicious), Southern Italy (the wines of
Campania are amazing), Yecla (red Monastrell is bold and beautiful) and Rias
Baixas (Albariño, the crisp white) in
Spain, and more. We are fortunate to have access to the great wines of these
areas and without globalization and importers looking for new gems, we’d never
taste them.
But issues exist with these “new” areas too. They’re subject to the
demands of importers who throw money at them and often require them to change
their style slightly for the American/British/Asian market.
Lots to think about. So I’ll try to bottom line it: What
does this mean for us, the normal wine consumer? When we’re
traveling, we need to order local wines and remember how they taste. And when we buy a wine from that region at the wine shop when we
return home, we need to evaluate whether or not it transports us back to our
travel experience. Because if it doesn’t, if it’s “just red wine,” or lacks the
essence of what brings a smile to our face as we think about the Brunello di
Montalcino we had while watching the sun setting over the Ponte Vecchio in
Florence, as the bridge turned from yellow to vibrant orange to blue, then we
need to keep hunting for the wines that bring us there.
Globalization has its benefits, as we have access to wines
that we many never have had before, but the downside is real. For those of us
seeking authenticity, even on our dinner tables, we need to work to get there.
We need to buy wines that represent place and send a message to the large wine
producers that earthy, slate-y, or acidic wines may not show up on their taste
maps as universally appealing, but that we love them and we’ll buy them and
over homogenized “just” wine any day.
It really is a shame that this happens so much. Wine is meant to be interesting and unique and speak of its terroir. The world needs more winemakers who let the grapes and the terroir express themselves rather than be manipulated. I often feel like I have to look to emerging regions to find wine with soul these days. Eastern Europe - especially Hungary and Croatia are very interesting in this regard these days.
ReplyDeletePete,
ReplyDeleteI totally agree but fortunately there are a lot of people out there making wine who also agree. The ones that won't compromise on quality. You see them in every region, but you have to know where to look. For example, I always look at the back labels of wines to see who is importing them, since some importers only partner with winemakers who make "wines of terroir." It takes a lot more these days to make sure you don't get a white-washed wine.
With competition for shelf space and the mighty dollar ruling all (whoever has the cash to market and reduce their prices wins) it is often better to seek out producers that you've never heard of, regions that are emerging, or just order direct from small wineries.
Even in California, there are 100s of small producers who care but it's our job to go find them and support them rather than just buying what's easily available. Does it take work? YES! But it's worth it!
I'm envious you can get wines from Croatia. I've heard they are outstanding but can't get them where I am. I need to do a little online ordering!
Thanks again for your comment and for reading this. It's nice to know I'm not in it alone in feeling like globalization has a price in wine!
Elizabeth