So when I looked more into this wine, which ranks among the worst I've had in this around $10/bottle project, I was shocked to see that Barton & Guestier, the producer picked Corsica for Pinot Noir.
I know these cheapie brands are trying to satisfy demand, but this is nothing short of grape abuse. They've been growing vines in Corsica since Phoenician times, but Mediterranean climate loving grapes -- like Sangiovese (called Nielluccio here) or the crisp Vermentino, both which dig the warmer sub-tropical island climate -- are appropriate. Not Pinot Noir. The Burgundians would cry to see these poor grapes.
I bought Bistro at the recommendation of my wine guy at my favorite store, when I told him I was doing this $10 project. He said this was a solid wine with good character, if a little light. That would make for a fine bistro wine even if the label was so unappealing and cheesy, that I had a hard time adding it to my cart. Should have gone with the gut.
Corsica's largest wine region is a Vins de Pays/Indication Geographique Protegée, called Vin de Pays de I'lle de Beauté, which is the island of beauty (it looks pretty beautiful, so that makes sense). When I told M.C. Ice where the wine was from, my French pronunciation was so bad that it sounded like I said I'lle de boot-ay. M.C. noted that the name was fitting since it tasted like it boot-ay as well. Ignorant American joke, yes. True? Also yes.This wine reinforces my stance that there's no such thing as a good, inexpensive Pinot Noir. It's a hard grape to grow, it thrives in weird, hard to farm places and that's expensive. They've got to pass that cost on. If they don't spend the money, well, you get this.
Wine: 2011 Barton & Guestier Bistro Pinot Noir
Where?: Vin de Pays de I'lle de Beauté (the French Island of Corsica)
Grape: Pinot Noir
Alcohol: 12%
Price: $7.99
Color: A nice, light color -- a transparent, brownish, bricky color. By the looks of it, very promising. Even though it's from a hot climate, it wasn't thick and inky. Smell: This smelled great. Licorice, tea, dried potpourri, and lots of damp earth. If wine was for smelling and not for drinking, Bistro would be perfect. But, alas, you have to taste it, and that's a damn shame for this wine.
Taste: Imagine you had a black tea bag, dipped it in water for about 2 seconds and then added red food coloring. There is NO flavor, a fleeting second of tannin, and no acid. The wine is like drinking vitamin water -- a little flavor but lacking character. It is a nothing wine. Not even worth the sip.
I've experienced the cheap Pinot Noir surprise before. A few years ago a wine shop told me that Corbett Canyon boxed Pinot Noir came from Macedonia, and I was so fascinated I had to give it a try:
ReplyDeletehttp://wine-by-benito.blogspot.com/2010/05/nv-corbett-canyon-pinot-noir.html
Benito,
ReplyDeleteIt seems like this worked out for you. My experience with a lower cost winemaking region was FAR less successful than yours...or were you being nice and I'm failing to read between the lines?
Good to hear from you! Hope all is well! We've got to meet someday!
Take care,
Elizabeth
Elizabeth,
ReplyDeleteWell, it was bad Pinot Noir but not undrinkable. I've had worse table wine (of unrelated grapes) from France. I did have a Merlot from Sicily that was damned near undrinkable one time. There are really good wines from the Mediterranean islands but you need to stick with the native grapes.
I might be on the lookout for this Bistro wine, just because I've never had anything from Corsica. It's the same spirit of adventure that has gotten me to try wines from Brazil, Moldova, Belarus, Turkey, Mississippi, and a bunch of other places that don't show up on respectable wine lists. :)
Cheers,
Benito
Nice! Love it! Let me know what you think.
ReplyDeleteI want to get my hands on some of their Sangiovese or Vermentino -- those seem good. But hot places and Pinot don't jibe. I'm pretty sure you'll agree but LMK.
Elizabeth
All too true, Elizabeth! But your effort is appreciated. Pinot Noir can be the most sublime experience, but even the more expensive bottles have a higher risk profile than Bordeaux or a straight Cabernet. Does the $20 bottle bring enough added value?
ReplyDeleteIf you ever have chance to get yout hand on a corsican rosé, you should absolutely go for it! A french vinatis.com has few examples. I don't usually like rose, but these do the trick for me!
ReplyDeleteBy the way, thanks for the blog and podcast, oftrn listen to you while walking our dog ! Learned a lot about american winemaking especially. U.S. Wines imported to Europe tend to be in the bulk end, though. Sad.
Heikki Tuominen, finland
What's the protocol for returning crap wine to the wine shop for a refund? It always feels like a gamble selecting a new wine, especially when it's above the $10-20 range. I have found Trader Joe's to be accommodating (as they are with all their products, not just wine) but what are your thoughts on wine return etiquette? Also, should this review make me wary of B&G- produced wine?
ReplyDeleteHi Heikki,
ReplyDeleteThanks for reading/listening! I appreciate you! Glad we've taught you something about the variety that's in the US.
There are a number of wines from Corsica that are great, and rosé seems like it would be a great fit, especially if it was from Grenache, which can tolerate heat. I love rosé so I bet it would be great...and even better if I had it while there....someday!
Take care and thanks for listening!
Elizabeth
HB -
ReplyDeleteYes, I think at the $20 level you can get some solid Pinot, especially from Oregon. Burgundy is hit or miss, but in a good vintage you can do ok at $20 - $25 at the Village level. Also, Mendocino in California makes some excellent Pinots for around $20.
Some things are worth the extra money and Pinot is one of them.
Thanks for reading/writing!
Elizabeth
Hey Cheryl,
ReplyDeleteIt's a little tricky to return wine. In both the restaurant and the store, I only return wine if it's gone bad from a chemical perspective, not if I don't like it. So if it tastes like vinegar, smells like a moldy basement, or has a bad flavor like sulfur or onion, etc. I return it. If it's like this wine -- just not good tasting -- I literally pour it down the drain.
On the question on B&G -- they actually make some great wines, not just low level stuff. Some of their mid- to high-end wines are really quite delicious. Also, they make a big range of wines so I wouldn't cut them off or be wary of anything more than this wine.
Hope that helps!
Elizabeth