The Around $10 Project Continues: A YAWN for Casillero del Diablo Reserva Privada Malbec

I talked about Chilean Malbec in the Malbec podcast, and we just did the Chile podcast, so I think it's only right for me to discuss one.

Before I dig in, I'll make the caveat that this wine is part of the "Around $10 Wine Project" and I realize that it's not the be all and end all of Chilean Malbec. BUT, as I've found with previous versions of the pairing of place and grape: YAWN! 


Chile needs to leave Malbec to its neighbors in the east and keep on trucking with Cabernet and Carmenere (which, on balance, needs some help but with time will be outstanding). The country's got enough amazing wine: they don't need to waste time doing less-than-great Malbec. 

Before I get to the review, a word on Concha y Toro, the owner of Casillero del Diablo, because it is one of the most important wineries in Chile. 

In 1883 aristocrats Don Melchor de Santiago Concha y Toro (I'm not making up the name, it really was his name) and his wife started the winery by bringing grapes from Bordeaux to the Central Valley of Chile. The business became so successful that the company was traded on the Chilean stock market by the 1920s and started to export to Europe by 1933. 

Despite Chile's isolation, Concha y Toro forged international relationships throughout the 20th century, expanding and partnering with U.S. Import powerhouse Banfi to gain widespread distribution in the States. By 1994 the company was trading on the New York Stock Exchange too. Kind of a big deal.

Casillero del Diablo came about because someone kept stealing wines from Don Melchor's cellar. To keep them away, he started a rumor that the devil (el diablo) hung around down there. As far fetched as it was, the thieves freaked and he was able to keep his cellar intact. Behold the power of a ghost story.  

The company has vineyards in nearly every part of Chile, including the Rapel Valley, the source for the Malbec in this wine. A big region, south of Santiago, Rapel and its subregions are known for red grapes. The area is diverse and huge and because of that, of mixed quality. And so...

The Wine: 2011 Casillero del Diablo Reserva Privada Malbec

Where it's from: Rapel Valley, Chile

Alcohol: 13.5%

Price: $7.99

Color: The right color for a Malbec, which is always super dark. This was one dark purple -- looked good. 

Smell: Well, the 60% of the wine that was aged in American oak barrels (which are generally known to give off more flavor) dominated the smell. There was a ton of coffee on first whiff. The problem was that past the espresso and wood smells, the only aroma was that of artificial red cherry, kind of like a Jolly Rancher candy. I don't know what happened here but unlike the Malbecs from France and Argentina, this wine had no notes of dark fruit and no richness. It was simple, but not in a good way.

Taste: Jolly Rancher cherry and cherry lollipop with a light tinge of earth. But the earth was like eating a mouthful of wet dirt. There was a coffee taste but it was mild and some good mouth-drying tannin, but the wine had no acid. I was just grateful there was no alcohol burn (that's usually where these cheap reds can go wrong and this one didn't).

Drink or sink?: Sink. This wine didn't taste bad, but it's a nothing wine. There's absolutely no compelling reason to drink this. It has no great flavors or textures, and it's completely boring. For this price point, do the Zolo. Far better for a dollar or two more.