August 30, 2011

Some Tips on Planning for a Jaunt in Wine Country

People ask me all the time: What wineries should I visit when I'm in (Napa/Sonoma/Long Island name a region)? I really struggle with the answer. It's kind of like people asking what the best pizza or bagel is in New York or the best barbeque in North Carolina. I could tell you my picks, but the truth is that everyone has a favorite and a strong opinion about why that is.

Although I always offer suggestions, I think there are some fundamental keys to planning to visit a wine region that will help you stay organized and have a great experience. So here are a few things to think about when you're heading to make a visit to vineyards -- whether they be in California or Croatia...
  1. Plan...or plan to explore.

    Ok, so it's very romantic to think about hopping in the car and just stopping by places you happen upon in wine country. But there are some problems with this approach. First, vineyards are pretty big and wineries are spread out. Without a map to orient you and an idea of where you want to go ahead of time, you could waste precious time driving aimlessly around. Most tasting rooms, in the US at least, are only open from 10 AM to 5 PM. That's not a whole lot of time to mess around. Second, if you get lost and wind up away from the wineries you're going to be irritated. Plotting a trail for yourself will save you time, stress, and maximize your fun.

    On the other hand, if you're not a planner and wish to explore (something I do when I go to Sonoma, for instance), make sure you pick a discreet geographic area to troll. If you're in South Africa, for instance, decide that you're going to Franschoek and explore within that area or if you're going to Napa, stick on the Silverado Trail. Again, trying to tackle a whole county or region in a day or so is going to waste time, so confine your inner Magellan.

  2. If it's your first time in an area, you may want to hit the big names. They are usually pretty cool, albeit commercial. There's no shame in wanting to see the gorgeous vineyards of Robert Mondavi or the caves of Veuve Cliquot in Champagne. There's a reason why these places are visited often...they are gorgeous and are worth the time, if you take them for the marketing showpieces they are.

    Conversely, if you've been to an area multiple times, you may want to hit the little guys to branch out and learn more about the boutique side of things. That's a different experience (often requiring appointments, BTW), and very cool but it will give you a different flavor for the area...not necessarily the one that everyone talks about.

  3. Research wineries in the area and call ahead to schedule appointments if that's what's required. Don't assume that every tasting room is open for walk-ins. Especially in Europe, you will need to set appointments to taste before you head out into wine areas. What a shame it would be to go to Germany or Italy and not get to taste because you didn't look into pre-scheduling appointments. An hour on the computer and the phone will ensure you have the trip you want to have! And please...if you schedule and appointment don't be late. Sometimes the proprietors are coming just to meet with you and to be late is kind of rude. Call if you get lost.

  4. Plan to visit 5 wineries but don't be surprised if it's fewer. Again, 10 AM - 5 PM isn't that much time once you factor in driving time and lunch. Make sure to visit your favorite wineries or the "must hit" ones first, so you don't miss them if your time runs out. Four to five wineries is a great day and trying to cram in much more will leave you tired, drunk, and not appreciating what you're tasting.

  5. EAT. Yes, my inner Jewish grandmother comes out here. You have to eat. Whether you stop at the grocery store ahead of time and bring snacks and water or plan a nice big lunch at a chi chi place, you've got to refuel. To the point above, this will spare you from feeling drunk and exhausted. Most major commercial wine areas have excellent options for food -- since wine and food go hand in hand -- but it makes sense to research this as well and, to point 1 above, plan it into your day so you ensure you get replenished.

  6. We did a podcast where we talked about tasting room etiquette, so I'll just mention some high level tips that may be of interest and you can listen for the rest...

    • My number one rule: PLEASE don't "big time" the tasting room staff. Many of them are learning about wine and aren't 100% up on their stuff. Many of them are, but showing you know more than they do benefits no one. Be courteous, ask questions you genuinely want to know about (not ones you answer yourself after they give you an answer you don't like), and if you don't like the wines, keep it to yourself.

    • Guess what: It's ok and even cool to spit. As you're going through your day, you may want to think about only drinking the stuff you really are in love with and spitting the rest. Those spittoons aren't there for nothing. That said, it's completely fine to drink too...

    • And to that end, it's not ok to be hammered, loud, and obnoxious in a tasting room. Even if you went to Sonoma to drink yourself silly, remember there are other people who are there for different reasons (celebrating an anniversary, dorking out about wine, taking notes for a blog...see right: )

    • Finally, if you don't love the wine you taste, don't feel obligated to buy it. Why spend your money on a bottle you don't like or that you can get at home when you could purchase something unique that you love from another winery that only sells out of its tasting room? I try hard only to buy what I like and what I can't get locally.

  7. Do I need to say this one? Don't drink and drive. From Long Island to Virginia to Washington to California, all places that have a concentration of wineries also have good wine tour buses or car services. Use them or designate a driver who will spit the whole time. If you're abroad, be extra careful, and just hire someone to take you around.
    'Nough said.
So that's a loose framework for visiting wine country. Hopefully it helps! Please post your comments below and let me know if you have other questions on wine country tips and travel! *This post came at the request of my absolutely fabulous, supportive and amazing sister. JWS, you rock.

10 comments:

  1. Elizabeth,

    Great post, excellent tips!

    Planning vs. exploring has had its debates in my house. Maybe I'm a little nerd bomber for planning things out place by place, with much research as well, but the intent is always to maximize the experience. I get an earful about being carefree and just going where the road leads me and all that jazz. I feel validated now.

    Also I have a question about an experience at a tasting last weekend. This lady told the pourer she DID NOT want Burgundy. So after the whites the wine rep. poured her the first red. The lady went off! She said I told you no burgundies!

    I was confused because I thought only wines from burgundy could be...well...burgundies. Is that not correct? The wine was a Pinot Noir, which I know is the main red grape in Burgundy along with Gamay, but this wine was made in VA?

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  2. Thanks Matt!

    Everyone has a different style in wine country. I would split the trip with your tasting partner -- one day for you, the immaculate planner (I'm with you here!) and one day to wander. Then you will hit what you want and your partner scratches their itch too!

    On your question.. that person tasting is a complete snob, in my opinion or is really old school (or just old). You are completely correct in saying that you can't call anything from Burgundy, Burgundy unless it's from there. That wasn't the case until recently though (evidence Gallo's "Hearty Burgundy" blend). So people called Pinot Noir red Burgundy and Chardonnay white Burgundy.

    We don't do that anymore. As you said, we just call the stuff by the grape name both out of respect for Burgundians, and because wine is distinctive from places like Burgundy and should be noted for that.

    I think that lady was being a huge jerk and trying to strut her wine knowledge in front of the poor rep who either didn't know that Pinot Noir was red Burgundy, or didn't understand why someone would make such a giant deal out of no Burgundy when he/she was pouring VA wines exclusively.

    Could I be any more direct? Sorry to be rude about the lady, but I think that is so inappropriate to be such a snob and then flip out on someone that's trying to showcase their wine. So NOT a Normal Wine Person!

    : ) Elizabeth

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  3. Damn it!!! I should have said something. I was pretty sure, but I had a bit of doubt. Thank you for the information. I didn't know that about the use of the burgundy name within the United States.

    Yes, she WAS an older, stuffy, uppity know it all. Like a wine bully. Loudly proclaiming to everyone "I don't like that." That poor girl was so scattered and red faced after that. Whew wee! This was one of the reasons I was put off by wine before for so many years. But not anymore. Cheers to your site!

    I'm going to keep reading, listening and soaking it all in. Now I have a new reason to continue my education. To defend the innocent wine pourers of the world...:) THANKS for the great feedback on this. So cool to get your take on it. It feels good to be able to discuss things like this.

    Cheers,
    Matt

    P.S. That bottle of Pinot she scoffed at is now open and ready to pour. Her loss no doubt!

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  4. Matt,

    You know sometimes it's not even worth it to get into it with the snobs of the world. They are just unpleasant people with bad self esteem that relish the thought of putting other people down to make themselves feel better. It's a tough call as to whether to say anything or just let it go, even if you were 100% confident. She'll get hers someday -- karma's a bitch!

    Thanks so much for the compliment and I'm glad you feel comfortable asking me about this stuff. That's what I'm here for! Definitely join the FB page too if you haven't...lots of people asking great questions on there and a really nice community of people talking to each other too!

    http://www.facebook.com/WineForNormalPeople#!/WineForNormalPeople

    Take care and hope that Pinot was awesome!
    E

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  5. Hi Elizabeth,

    Long time listener, first time... um, commenter? Anyway, I really enjoyed this post and I am glad you mentioned the calling for appointment part of exploring wine country. My fiancé and I have been to California wine country a number of times and every time we return, friends ask for recommendations to plan their own trips. The appointment side of it is the #1 thing I mention. On our first trip, we visited a winery in Napa that was appointment only, we were a party of 6. Luckily for us, they had a cancellation and squeezed us in. Turns out that winery has become out go-to for Sauv Blanc. Now, we check pretty much every winery with a phone call before hitting them up. Some are very flexible, especially in Sonoma. Others can be a little more stringent and difficult to get into, good thing there are only 300 or so wineries in that area to chose from. I think your 5 winery rule is a good target, we like to hit up the local grocers out there before we leave to get some sandwiches and chip and try to work a picnic in to one of the tastings. A lot of the grounds have great outdoor eating areas and it saves a little time so we're not rushing around for lunch. Also keep in mind that a number of wineries are in the mountains. This is an unusual driving area for midwesterners like me who are used to seeing nothing but the horizon when driving around so take caution, there are some tight turns and blind curves, those speed limits are posted for a reason. (Also serves as another reason to keep an eye on the drinking and driving, you want to have all of your wits when negotiating the drive up Mount St. Helena.)

    All of this talk about wine country has got me jonesing for a Napa Cab so I'll leave you with this, keep in mind whatever you buy, you are going to have to carry so maybe have a cooler handy so as not to heat up your wine and have a plan for getting your wine back home.

    Thanks Elizabeth for the great podcast and keep up the good work!

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  6. William --

    Thanks so much for commenting!!! Love your suggestions...all great points.

    Those hairpin turns driving from Napa to Sonoma in the Mayacamas Mountains are hell even when you're sober...excellent extra point.

    AND to add to your "plan to get the stuff home" -- there's a store in California called BevMo that sells large cardboard boxes with styrafoam padding in 2, 4, 6, and 12 bottle sizes. It's just a little south of Napa and well worth the trip and the $15 baggage fee to check the stuff if you buy a ton!!!

    Thanks a million for listening/reading/writing!
    Elizabeth

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  7. You are simply the best!

    I started listening to your Wine for Normal People podcast about two weeks ago, immediately downloaded my Hello Vino App, and I'm addicted to you guys. I listen to my daily spiritual podcasts for about 3 hours, and then straight to wine for normal people podcast.
    Oh don't you dare judge me, woman! Jesus turned water to wine at a wedding!

    But seriously, Elisabeth, I am so, so glad to have found the Wine for Normal people podcast and blog, have listened to many others and they're not for me, the in the grocer, local wine and liquor store consumer. Thank you guys for being you; you, meaning, normal, down to earth, and not pretentious. And you said it best, I hate pretentious anything.

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  8. OMG Cassandra --

    This is one of the nicest things anyone has ever written to me! Thank you so much for taking the time to write and to listen/read. I can't tell you how motivating it is to hear from you and to have you say such great stuff!

    (And BTW, I hope you know I am not particularly judgemental, except of jerky people...and you don't seem to fit that description! I love "The Secret" and listen to it on tape, so don't judge me for that!).

    I am so glad that we're working for you and you like what we're doing. Please write with show suggestions and ideas or comments any time! Or call in -- we love callers!

    Take care and please stay in touch!
    Elizabeth

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