Northstar Winery: A Shining Example of Walla Walla Wine

Since I did an interview with winemaker David "Merf" Merfeld of Northstar Winery, I'll let that do the talking for the winery. Here -- just a few quick points and then to the wine reviews from this great winery, whose wines are actually available outside of Washington!

Northstar was started by Washington's 800-lb gorilla of Washington, Chateau Ste. Michelle, to create premium Right Bank Bordeaux-styled (Merlot based) wines from the best sites in the state. Northstar's first vintage was 1994, made by Jed Steele, a veteran California winemaker who came north to start the project. 

By 2001, Merf had made the moved from craft beer to wine. He was ready to go east to Walla Walla to work with Steele. A year later, the rustic but kind of slick tasting room and winery were built in Walla Walla (I loved their under lit bar -- reminded me of the Hudson Hotel in New York). 

By 2005, Merf was flying solo. He's been the head winemaker since. I love his integrity. The guy loves wine, and is completing a degree in horticulture to learn more about the vine. And he has a great feel for the land and for the grapes. He is such an advocate for the region and he seems to be universally liked by his neighbors -- always willing to help and a true champion for Walla Walla.

I was happy to note that not only is Merf cool, he makes well balanced, clean, and lovely wine. A big bonus: because they are owned by Chateau Ste. Michelle, Northstar wines are distributed more widely than some others from the region so you stand a chance to find them at a restaurant or shop. To the lineup...


2009 Stella Maris Red Blend, Columbia Valley, $29
Grapes: 65% Merlot, 14% Syrah, 11% Petit Verdot, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc
Alcohol: 14.5%

Description: From Columbia Valley and Walla Walla grapes. A light color with lots of floral, perfumed, and red cherry aromas, it had an awesome spiced cherry (like cinnamon), dusty character. The dust and black tea flavors with kickin' tannins and good acid made this a winner. 

Drink or sink?:  Drink. The lightest of the bunch, if were just a little lower-priced this would be my new Wednesday night wine. I'm too cheap to make that happen, but it's a great one. 


2009 Columbia Valley Merlot, $41
Grapes: 81% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot
Alcohol: 14.6%

Description: A cherry color, with awesome fruit aromas -- red and black cherry, dark raspberry, and a bunch of cinnamon from the oak. It had more going on in the taste -- the fruit combined with a maple, nutmeg flavor, and a little black pepper to boot. It was kind of like a spiced cherry pie. I liked the mouth-drying tannins -- great balance to the fruit. 

Drink or sink? Drink. Very clean and not so dusty, it's a sipper but would be great with grilled food too.


2009 Walla Walla Merlot, $50

Grapes: 78% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot
Alcohol: 14.5%


Description: A darker cherry color with awesome dusty, earthy notes and a huge hit of cloves, cinnamon and dark raspberry and black cherry aromas. Tasted like rich baking spices and raspberry -- just like it smelled but with more strawberry fruit flavors. I loved the balance of this wine -- it had a little bite because of the strong tannin and great acid.

Drink or sink?: Drink. Awesome wine. Completely characteristic of Walla Walla -- the dirt and fruit with great balance. I think this could age a few years more and be even better. 


2010 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, $41

Grape: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon

Alcohol: 14.5%

Description: A rich dark plum color, it stained the glass on the swirl -- lots of pigment, usually means lots of flavor. Very surprising, this was more floral and like violets than fruit to smell. Full of blackberry, red cherry, and black plum fruit, this wine has a ton of fruit to taste. Strong tannins, and a ton of coconut flavor from the oak -- this is Merf's personal stamp on the wine. He loves coconut so he uses 25% American oak to get the essence in the wine. 

Drink or sink? Drink. A very nice Cab. I love the Northstar Merlots more than the Cab, but it's a great wine nonetheless.

2009 Walla Walla Cabernet Franc, $40
Grape: 100% Cabernet Franc
Alcohol: 14.6%

I almost didn't try this, since it's not that widely available and I hate posting on things that are hard to get, but I am SO glad I did. It was probably my favorite of the lineup. 

Description: Red cherry color, this wine smelled like the land (it's from Walla Walla, so I'm not at all surprised!) -- lots of garden smells. It smelled and tasted like red cherry with black olive and green pepper with lots of decaying leaves, wet earth, and tea leaves. It was so complex, with medium tannin and strong acid to put everything in balance. 

Drink or sink? My favorite of the bunch. I loved this wine and I hope they'll increase production (only 212 cases were made) so more people can try it! If you can get your hands on this wine, do it!

Thanks to Merf and everyone at Northstar for being so helpful and cool!!! Go visit when you get to Walla Walla!